This blog post is a new format! Instead of me preaching about where you should go next, it features my long-time client (and now friend) Jen DiDomizio's trip report from her recent vacation to the beautiful country of Slovenia.
I knew Slovenia would be right up Jen's alley: gorgeous scenery, delicious food, local wines, hiking opportunites and a little “off the beaten path” from a usual European vacation.
After she returned, she was so excited about her recent vacation that she offered to write up her trip report so that others can live vicariously through her (like I do with you all!
I hope you enjoy reading about her adventures as much as I did.
Thank you Jen! Cheers to many more adventures!
Traveler Tasting Notes: Surprising Slovenia
by Jen DiDomizio
I wasn’t sure what to expect when I chose Slovenia as my next solo travel destination. I knew it was part of the former Yugoslavia, but I had to look it up on a map to find out exactly where it was. Tucked between Italy, Croatia, Austria, and Hungary, this compact country even has a sliver of coastline along the Adriatic. (I now know the joke is that the country is shaped like a chicken.) I chose Slovenia because, especially traveling in the high season of August, I wanted something in Europe that felt a bit less obvious.
As soon as I arrived at the tiny airport and caught the view out of the baggage claim window, which looked like a screensaver, I knew I’d made a good choice. My first stop was the capital, Ljubljana, about a 25-minute ride from the airport. I fell for Ljubljana almost immediately. It was vibrant enough to wake me up after a long stretch of travel yet calm enough to make me feel instantly at home. The pedestrian-only historic center, with its river and bridges, bright squares, intriguing architecture, and buzzing cafes, invites you to explore at your own pace. Some cities make you feel like you have to tick everything off immediately just to get your bearings. But not Ljubljana!
Strolling around, I was drawn to the tree and cafe-lined Ljubljanica River, which sits at the center of it all. You never feel “stuck” on either side of the river because the bridges are so plentiful, each with its own charm, especially the iconic Triple Bridge designed by Slovenia’s favorite architect, Jože Plečnik. You will not leave this country without knowing his name. It was hot, even for August, but it looked like autumn, with colorful leaves already falling to the ground. Early mornings felt almost surreal in their quiet. As the day went on, the area filled with walkers, cyclists, and paddleboarders. I wandered past colorful Prešeren Square, discovering hidden courtyards, artisan shops, and the vibrant Central Market (designed by Plečnik, of course), before eventually hiking up to Ljubljana Castle for sweeping views of the city below. By evening, coffee cups turned to wine glasses as the outdoor tables filled and the city buzzed into the night.
The old town has a youthful vibe (it is a university town, after all), but a sophisticated feel as well. The streets are filled with a mix of languages and accents, but English is widely spoken and English menus are commonplace. The architecture hints at Ljubljana’s location between the influences of Venice and Vienna. I was struck by statues celebrating poets and artists rather than the political and military figures so common in other European cities. I never felt desperate to fit it all in. I was content to wander, enjoy a glass of wine (or two), take in the culture, and dream of someday returning.
Beyond the Capital
It’s quite remarkable how much Slovenia changes in just a short distance. As much of Europe escapes to the coast in the summer, it was only right that I too experience the Adriatic in August. Just about an hour and a half from Ljubljana, you can find yourself in the coastal town of Piran. Once part of the Republic of Venice, the town still posts street signs in both Slovenian and Italian. Climbing the ancient walls gives you some of the best views of the town and coastline, but weaving through the narrow cobblestone streets is the real allure.
From the waterfront, I wandered past tiny shops and pastel houses, through the main square and up toward the bell tower. You can walk across the rugged, pebbly beach and dip your feet in the Adriatic, or jump in from one of the concrete sunbathing platforms along the promenade. This is not a sandy retreat in the way most Americans envision a beachside town.
The Škocjan Caves are a breathtaking natural wonder under an hour from Ljubljana. Photos are prohibited, so I followed our guide into the massive underground canyon and simply stood in awe of my surroundings.
Passing ancient mineral formations, we made our way farther underground, eventually reaching the Reka River and the soaring suspension bridge above it before emerging into daylight at the bottom of an enormous sinkhole. At Socerb Castle, the view stretched across Slovenia toward Italy and Croatia, suddenly putting into perspective exactly where in the world I was.
Some of my favorite moments came from places I didn’t even plan to visit. Škofja Loka, less than a half-hour drive from Ljubljana, appeared like a postcard as I crossed the footbridge into the well-preserved medieval town. During a mid-morning walk around the town square, I could hear my own footsteps on the weathered flagstones. I ventured up the hill to the castle and museum for views of the tiled roofs of the town below and the mountains beyond. My visit culminated in a near-perfect cappuccino on the main square, observing the locals in conversation and the kids playing under the massive old tree. And Škofja Loka wasn't the only small town worth a detour. In nearby Radovljica, known for its beekeeping heritage, I found panoramic views of the Julian Alps and, for those who like a good doorway, rows of beautifully preserved houses with Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque door frames.
Breathtaking Bled
Weaving through the foothills of the Julian Alps brings you to the impossibly blue waters of Lake Bled. My hotel room balcony overlooked the lake, Bled Castle, and the surrounding Alps. If you are going to stay on Lake Bled, splurge for the lake-view room. Without it, I might have missed two of my favorite moments: a hot- air balloon drifting over the lake just after sunrise and a pop-up fireworks display lighting up the sky after sunset.
Lake Bled was not exactly how I pictured it. At less than four miles around, it’s not a large lake, but there is an incredible amount of activity packed along its shores. The water is so blue it’s hard to comprehend that it’s even real. You can get plenty of great views simply walking around the lake, but since I prefer a proper hike, I found myself on the Bled Round Trail (BRT), an 8.5-mile route that circles the lake through the surrounding hills and forests, connecting many of Bled's best viewpoints. I did not realize there were so many hiking options right in Bled, and this one proved to be just the challenge I was looking for, with some tough ascents, steep descents, and light scrambling along the way. Finishing with my feet in the brisk water followed by a crisp Slovenian lager is pretty much my idea of a perfect afternoon.
You can’t visit Lake Bled without taking a boat to Bled Island. I was planning to take the traditional Pletna boat, but I stood in the wrong line and ended up on an electric boat. Which was actually just fine, with a nice, cool breeze and a sassy captain. I climbed the steps (did I mention Bled loves steps?) for yet another view of the lake from above.
Not far from Bled, Vintgar Gorge in Triglav National Park was something else entirely. The gorge was carved by the Radovna River, and the trail twists along wooden walkways through the canyon. They handed out mandatory hairnets and hard hats without explanation. I later learned they were for hygiene and protection in case of “spontaneous rockfalls.” Even given the otherworldly scenery of the gorge, my favorite part may have been venturing up the steep stairs (yes, stairs again) for a short hike to Natour Bar to sample Slovenian food and craft beer. The bar is unlike anything I have seen before, with stools and tables made from tree stumps, a rustic floor of wood chips, and a view overlooking the Alps and grazing cows.
Food & Wine
I did not have particularly high expectations for Slovenian cuisine but was immediately won over. Some of my favorite dishes included the Waldorf salad at JAZ by Ana Roš, a modern take on the classic. I discovered the simple pleasure of Slovenian cheese and fresh, thinly sliced prosciutto after stopping by a wine bar with an appetite and realizing they did not serve lunch. They were not about to let me go hungry! Slovenian wine caught me off guard too, especially because I rarely see it back home. The only gripe I have with wine in Slovenia is the pours, which are small enough to tempt me to order “a double” (I did not).
A local trout dinner with a simple green salad had me smiling ear to ear because the salad reminded me of my Italian grandma. Unlike the wine, food portions in Slovenia are generous, as evidenced by the giant portion of smoky Carniolan sausage I thoroughly enjoyed but struggled to finish. Štruklji, traditional Slovenian dumplings that come in savory and sweet varieties, were the perfect pillowy post-hike snack, washed down with a hoppy Slovenian IPA. I was served an Istrian olive oil that I became completely obsessed with, tracked down, and brought home to NYC. Two things I (gasp) passed on were bear meat and the famous Bled Cream Cake.
sLOVEnia
Maybe not knowing what to expect was the best way to experience Slovenia. There are many places I’ve visited and thought I’d like to return to, but in Slovenia, I was planning my return before I even left.
Guest Post by Jen DiDomizio